PDF Download , by Cortney Burns Jan Newberry
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, by Cortney Burns Jan Newberry
PDF Download , by Cortney Burns Jan Newberry
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Product details
File Size: 34803 KB
Print Length: 368 pages
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC (November 25, 2014)
Publication Date: November 25, 2014
Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B00JVZ42OK
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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#330,665 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
Reading this book, for me, is akin to a middle-aged, every-other-weekend hiker with an aching knee reading a book about how to climb Mt. Everest. That hiker may really, really enjoy reading that book. And her hiking experiences may allow her to greatly appreciate all of the work that goes into climbing Mt. Everest, but the truth is, she will never, ever climb that mountain!Bar Tartine is a lovely book. The photographs are stunning. The recipes are creative and complex. I might, someday, try one of them.I will not be making any of these recipes anytime soon for a few reasons. As I'm sure the other reviews have mentioned again and again, each recipe calls for one or more ingredients that one must prepare using the techniques section that comprises the first half of the book. These ingredients are brined, pickled, smoked, dried, powdered, smoked, burnt, smoked then powdered...etc. I just do not have enough refrigerator space to devote to 10+ vats of various foods, in various stages of being transformed from simple to delicious. I live in Europe, and the fridges here tend to be small (note to any Europeans reading this, none of the things in this book will fit in your fridge, but if you are a native European, you may be braver than I when it comes to not refrigerating things). Also, only one person that I know in my town owns a gas oven, and it is the kind without a pilot light, so all of those dried food recipes are out.The other thing is, for all of the time spent on techniques, there is very little information about how to use the resulting pickles and powders and sauces, other than in other equally daunting recipes at the end of the book. I might be persuaded to cook heads of garlic at 130F in my rice cooker for 3 WEEKS if there was a list of more than three ways in which I could actually use black garlic.All of that said, I will never climb Mt. Everest, but I do occasionally enjoy reading books about this feat. Hence, 4 stars for an interesting and engaging book about cooking techniques that I will likely never use.
The philosophy behind this book is immediately apparent: the first 150 pages contain recipes for ingredients, not dishes. But what ingredients! Goat cheese, pork fat chile oil, rice vinegar, Brussels kraut, fig leaf syrup, mushroom broth, karasumi/bottarga(!) An entire other category is powders - onion, garlic, yoghurt, rice koji, kale, parsnip, sauerkraut - that are bright and fresh and perfect for inventive sous vide recipes. One warning though: the recipe for black garlic (put garlic heads in a slow cooker set on Warm, for two weeks) mentions the intense smell: I confirm that it can go through walls.But back to that mushroom broth: it is ordinarily made with water and a few mushrooms, and is invariably insipid; this recipe cooks LOTS of fresh mushrooms at low temperature for hours then extracts all the liquid from them, is all. The recipe made so much sense that it was the first thing I made. It's easily the best mushroom broth in the world, but these guys also include a recipe to further reduce it to an emulsion, good grief.The recipes for dishes, when they finally start, are very inventive and just as uncompromising. Cabbage rolls with fish cake starts with the recipe for making fish cake. The result is probably not that different from wrapping store-bought fish cake with cabbage (a pairing made in Heaven), but hey: now I can invent new fish cakes laced with (say) white anchovies,katsuobushi, or even that bottarga. Slow-roasted carrots with burnt bread and almond milk sounds bizarre, but after reading the recipe it sounds compelling.Only after the first read-thru did I realize that - never mind the heavy use of Asian ingredients - the heart of this cookbook beats in Hungary. It uses no exotic, overpriced ingredients, and the recipes, while long and complicated, are not in themselves difficult. This is SLOW food, in the best sense of the word: some of the recipes would take months to make if you had to start from scratch. Right now is prime Brussels sprout season, so grab the book now, get the Brussels kraut started, and by next summer you'll be ready to cook with it. The authors spent years learning and developing their techniques, and are graciously sharing them with us here.
Wrong genre. This is a terrible book as a cookbook. Formatted and spun as more of a food adventure of the authors, or as a philosophy of food use it might have been received very favorably. But once you are in mind of a cookbook and you begin exploring this book, it is hard not to come away disappointed. You realize you aren't going anywhere with these recipes. For example, with a garden full of lettuce I opened the recipe for wedge salad with buttermilk, barley and sprouts. 31 ingredients and 10 of them refer you to other pages for their preparations, many of which are time consuming. Tracking down the ingredients would be at least a whole day's grocery run, if you are fortunate enough to live in a prime food city. This unusable recipe is not atypical of this book. I contrast this with Marcella's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking and the recipe there I did use tonight, Romaine lettuce salad with gorgonzola cheese and walnuts: 7 ingredients and a spectacular use of my lettuce. No, I cannot think of the user for Bar Tartine as a cookbook. Lots of effort, pretty pictures, some inspiring ideas, but caveat emptor!
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